Arctic Alaska Photo Tour - Early Winter

Travelers arrive in Fairbanks after flights from lower 48 states or other Alaska destinations. A shuttle van from your hotel Pikes Waterfront Lodge, (see your pre-trip email for details on your accommodations) will meet travelers curbside for the under 5 minute ride to where you will be staying on this first night of the trip on the banks of the Chena River.

We will meet you in the main lobby of the hotel at 6:00 PM for a pre-trip briefing, followed by a hearty Alaskan welcome diner at a local favorite restaurant!

During the pre-trip briefing we will have a discussion on the basics of aurora photography technique. When we return from dinner you can sign up for the “Aurora Wake-Up Call List” at the hotel main desk and perhaps have an opportunity to practice aurora photography on your first night from the banks of the Chena River.

After breakfast we will depart in two, 12-passenger, comfortable, customized Mercedes Sprinter vans, (4 people per van) driving north on what some people describe as the most scenic road in North America, the Dalton Highway. The Dalton or “Haul Road” as it is known to Alaskan truckers, was completed in 1974 so trucks could haul equipment and supplies to the recently discovered Prudhoe Bay Oilfields. The roughly 420 mile gravel road begins approximately 100 miles north of Fairbanks and is the only road that traverses the Arctic Circle in the United States. The first 100 miles of the drive is on the Eliot Highway, which traverses rolling hills in the White Mountains, before connecting with the Dalton Highway. The Dalton winds through mountainous terrain covered by boreal forest before crossing the Yukon River at mile 58 of the Dalton. Fall colors have faded into subdued hues as winter and snow overtake this land during this time of year. From the Yukon River the Dalton climbs into the open alpine country of the Caribou and Ray Mountains passing by Finger Mountain and Kanuti Flats, home to a resident caribou herd. Shortly after passing through the open mountainous terrain around Finger Mountain the road crosses the Arctic Circle, where our crossing will be celebrated! Another hour of driving brings us to the south side of the Brooks Range, which will already be accumulating their winter snowpack by this time of year. The snow-capped peaks of this wilderness mountain range provides for spectacular landscape photography. As we enter the Brooks Range the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, which parallels the Haul Road becomes more apparent, standing on steel pillars, as it converges with the road corridor. A short drive later the road enters the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River valley and we arrive at Coldfoot, the only truck stop on the five hundred miles of road between Fairbanks and Prudhoe Bay.

Coldfoot was a gold mining town at the turn of the last century and has the distinction of recording the greatest range of temperatures anywhere in the United States! A truck stop, diner and hotel, Coldfoot gives a unique look into the lives of truckers who make this 1,000 mile round trip year-round, even in the depths of winter when temperatures dip to 70 below zero! We will stop at the diner in Coldfoot to enjoy a meal at this backcountry outpost on North America’s most remote highway!

Our destination for the day is Wiseman, a turn of the 20th Century gold mining town that offers a glimpse into the recent human history of the south side of the Brooks Range. Located approximately 60 miles north of the Arctic Circle in the heart of the Brooks Range wilderness, Wiseman provides the perfect base for exploring and photographing this region. Accommodations in Wiseman may be considered slightly rustic, but are cozy and comfortable and the hospitality provided by our hosts, the Hicker Family at the “Arctic Getaway”, is legendary north of the Arctic Circle! Three main cabins where we stay, feature five well- appointed bedrooms, sitting areas, kitchen facilities and two full bathrooms that are shared by trip participants. Meals are served family style in the in the “dance hall” of the historic Wiseman community center. Away from the light pollution found in the south we will spend our first evening north of the Arctic Circle looking for and photographing northern lights (cloud cover permitting). If sky conditions and aurora cooperate we will stay up late into the evening and get a hands-on northern lights photography lesson. This will be the first opportunity for us to teach technique and composition of aurora photography in the field, and we will make the most of the evening if conditions are favorable.

This morning you will enjoy a more leisurely breakfast while you get to know your new surroundings. After breakfast you will set out for a day of exploring and photography on the south side of the Brooks Range. Autumn has passed and foliage has been replaced by snow and ice on the mountainsides, while the animals of the arctic are frantically preparing for approaching winter with its long nights and cold temperatures. Moose and caribou tend to be on the move this time of year as they begin moving into their wintering grounds. As we drive north towards the continental divide of the Brooks Range you will watch the trees thin as the highway slowly climbs toward Chandalar Shelf and Atigun Pass, and approaches the northernmost edge of the tree line in Alaska. The “Shelf” and “The Pass” are the two main “hills” that the Dalton Highway climbs to gain access to the “Northslope”. The next few miles of the road climb dramatically to 4,800 foot Atigun Pass, the highest road in Alaska, and continental Divide of the Brooks Range. As you ascend Atigun pass you will enter the high alpine environment, home to Dall Sheep, Golden Eagles and gyrfalcons! Snow typically blankets the landscape at this time of year and it is not unusual to encounter caribou migrating southward over the continental divide.

After a full day of photography and exploration you will return to Wiseman and “The Arctic Getaway” for dinner in the Dance Hall. After dinner, weather permitting, we will set up for our second night of aurora photography north of the arctic circle.

After breakfast we will set out on the on the all-day drive to Prudhoe Bay or “Deadhorse” as it’s known, the hub of oilfield activity and the end of the Dalton Highway. The first section of the drive will cover the same territory we saw the day before, but we will be looking for new and different wildlife sightings.

Descending onto the north side of the Brooks Range from Atigun Pass we enter a different world devoid of trees, and home too many species of arctic wildlife, such as musk-oxen, caribou, grizzly bear, fox, wolf and moose. Many birds of prey can be found in the open tundra landscape of the Northslope, such as rough-legged hawk, short-eared owl, gyrfalcon and snowy owl. Additionally, year-round bird residents such as willow and rock ptarmigan and common redpolls can be found in willow thickets by the roadside. We will budget our time to allow for numerous stops to photograph the scenery, wildlife and birds in this dramatic landscape. The Trans-Alaska Pipeline snakes over the open tundra parallel to the road and is a constant reminder of what lies at the end of the road on the coast of the Beaufort Sea in Prudhoe Bay. Our destination this night is “Deadhorse” or Prudhoe Bay the hub of oilfield activity and the location of the airport where we will catch our flight the next day. This night we will stay at one of the oilfield hotels that provide food and housing to visiting oilfield workers. This provides a unique view into the life of workers at North America’s northernmost industrial complex, and the place where roughly 20% of the US’s domestic oil supply originates from.

After a hearty breakfast at the oilfield hotel we set out to explore the area around the Prudhoe Bay oilfields. Most of the species of migrant waterfowl that rear their young in this area on the myriad of lakes and ponds that dot the landscape have already departed on their southward migration, but a few of the last to depart such as pacific loon, tundra swan and red-throated loon may still be found on open water. Short-eared and snowy owls hunt the open tundra for voles and shrews, while arctic and red fox stalk ptarmigan and lemmings in the dense low growing willows along streams. The abundance of both bird and mammal life in this harsh climate is amazing and a photographers dream. We will spend whatever time we have this morning exploring and photographing this area before we return to Deadhorse to catch our flight.

Mid-day we will proceed to the bustling Prudhoe Bay Airport and get checked in for our flight to the native village. Luggage weight and size will be restricted on this flight to 50 pounds total per person (including camera gear) so everyone will consolidate their gear and take only what is needed for the next three nights on the arctic coast. Gear should consist of necessary camera equipment and small duffel with tooth brush, change of clothing and cold weather gear (Hugh supplies appropriate size duffels for people needing them). Arctic weather conditions will be encountered, so suitable clothing and gear will be needed, please see the gear list at the end of this itinerary for what is necessary.

The short (35 minute) flight takes us over the spectacular arctic coastal plain and the well- known if not controversial “1002” area of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR). Depending on the altitude flown at, we may see wildlife on the tundra or bowhead whales as they migrate west along the Beaufort Sea coastline. Upon arrival in the Native Village in early afternoon we will be transported from the village airstrip to our accommodations for the next three nights. Although our lodgings are not luxury, what they lack in appearance is made up for in hospitality and a certain charm. Built from modular oilfield camp buildings the Inn is basic yet comfortable. Accommodations are in double rooms with twin beds, bathrooms with showers are located down a short hall. All our meals are prepared and eaten in the café located on site and are always hearty and tasty! Our schedule will depend on weather and individual interests, but the best photography tends to be early in the morning and later in the evening, so we will try and schedule meals around our photographic forays! While on the Beaufort Sea coast we will be photographing polar bears in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge where we operate under a special “Polar Bear Viewing Permit” through US Fish and Wildlife Service. Polar bear viewing and photography will be both land and water based. For the water based forays we will be boating 6 people at a time, with one guide and a local boat driver on the sheltered lagoons that surround the village. For land based activities we have a large and comfortable bus with many opening windows, which provides a safe and convenient platform to observe and photograph the bears from. After lunch we will set out on our first boat ride to the barrier islands just offshore where bears tend to lounge during the daylight hours before swimming to the island to feed on whale remains in the evening. For people not going on the boat ride they will accompany the other guide on the bus for a land based excursion.

We will be visiting a native village inhabited by approximately 250 Inupiat Indigenous people who are endemic to this region of arctic Alaska. The village is located on a small 3 mile by 2 mile island just off the arctic coastline. This Island was an important stop for whalers at the turn of the last century, but did not become a permanent settlement for the semi-nomadic Inupiat people until 1923 with the establishment of a fur trading post by a Nantucket whaler who married a native woman. The island is characterized by a large saltwater lagoon that is located on the east side of the island and provides a sheltered anchorage for the village fishing boats. The downtown consists of a cluster of homes built on the barren tundra approximately one mile from the village airport. There are limited roads and vehicles located in this village, but a vehicle is necessary for travel and photography of the polar bears. Keep in mind that we are visitors from a different culture to this village, and our sense of time and schedule may be different than the resident’s. Experiencing the culture of the Inupiat is as much of an experience as watching the polar bears!

The circumpolar indigenous people of the world have been hunting marine mammals and whales for thousands of years and the Inupiat of Alaska are no different. In a very tightly controlled hunt, arctic coastal villages of Alaska are allowed to hunt the bowhead whale, which frequent the waters of the adjacent Beaufort Sea/Arctic Ocean. A whale harvest quota is awarded to each village according to number of residents and the historic harvest.

The Inupiat name for the polar bear is “Nanuq”and the normal domain of Nanuq is not the beaches and tundra of the arctic coast, but the pack ice that covers the sea surface for 9 months of the year. Polar bears feed mainly on seals that live on and under the arctic ice, hunting them using a number of different techniques. Like their cousins the brown bears from which they evolved, during times of hunger, polar bears can be opportunistic and will feed on whatever food opportunities are present. Other food sources can include vegetation such as grass, small rodents, bird eggs, other marine mammals and scavenging on carrion. Polar bears are attracted to this area to scavenge on the carcasses of butchered whales, and begin to arrive here before the annual whale hunt begins on Labor Day each year. In mid-summer when the arctic pack ice moves off shore, Beaufort Sea polar bears are often marooned on shore where there is little to eat. These bears enter the fall season hungry from lack of readily available food and have learned that whale blubber is available in this area starting in early September. A bear’s memory is so good they will remember the time and place where food was available and return to that same spot the next year at the same time. The bears typically arrive in late August before the whale hunt begins, and will scavenge on the remains of whale carcasses from previous year’s hunts. We will be visiting this area after the annual whale hunt has been completed, but evidence of the hunt will be found in the massive bowhead whale bones visible on the “bone pile”.

These two days will be spent viewing and photographing bears and other wildlife that inhabit this area, both from a boat and from the bus on land. You are scheduled for a total of 12 hours of boating during your stay, spread out over 4 or 5 boat rides. The polar bears are resting, playing, nursing, sleeping and socializing on a barrier island located immediately off shore, so the actually boating dime and distance to where we photograph the bears is short (less than a half mile). The boat excursions are typically scheduled as 3 hour trips every morning and evening (including the trip on the afternoon of your arrival day and the morning of your departure day. Boat trips are weather dependent, but if wind or fog does not allow the boats to operate we have the bus to take you out for bear photography on land.

We will have opportunities to explore the island during our search for bears and other wildlife and may see snowy owl, arctic fox, and even grizzly bear. If we are fortunate, we may have the privilege of witnessing the bowhead whale harvest. If this is the case we will be allowed to watch and possibly photograph this fascinating Inupiat tradition. Observing and photographing this cultural event will be completely up to you as the travelers, but this would be a unique opportunity to witness something that few have ever seen. We will have to exercise cultural awareness on this subject and may not be able to photograph the people involved. It is important that you ask if photos are permissible.

This will be a long day of travel and our last opportunity to observe and photograph the bears before we depart midday. We will head out early on our last bear viewing foray, staying out on the boat until mid-morning. After a quick return to the hotel to use the restrooms and eat a light lunch we will board our airplane for the flight back to Prudhoe Bay and arrive in Prudhoe in early afternoon **(see special travel note in the information section at the end of this itinerary). Upon arrival at Deadhorse we will pick up a picnic lunch and start our drive south towards Wiseman as soon as possible. The goal is to spend as much time as possible exploring the area of coastal plain that we had to pass by earlier in the trip on our drive north to Prudhoe Bay. This will be our best opportunity to photograph muskoxen and we will make sure that we leave time to spend with these amazing prehistoric creatures. In addition we will be watching for other wildlife in this stunning landscape, such as caribou and grizzly bear, moose and fox. This time of year the sunset light is endless and the day lingers late into the evening hours. We still have a long drive ahead and with photography stops will not reach Wiseman until later in the evening. After the sun sets we will keep our eyes peeled for the aurora, as this may be an excellent opportunity for aurora photography!

The beginning of this day will be marked by a leisurely morning in order to give everyone an opportunity to rest after the previous long day of travel and if weather permitted, aurora photography. After breakfast a “local” will take you on a walking tour of Wiseman. Bring your camera to photograph some of the historic gold-rush era cabins and antique steam-powered gold mining equipment. In the afternoon some of you may choose to continue exploring the local area around Wiseman, or you can choose to spend a last afternoon looking for wildlife or photographing along the Dalton Highway on the south side of the Brooks Range. For this afternoon, we can focus on whatever interests you, whether it is the mining history of the Wiseman area, looking for mammals or absorbing and photographing the stunning scenery on the south side of the Brooks Range! This evening will be spent searching the arctic night skies for aurora one last time and finding the ideal location for you to compose aurora photographs!

After our last breakfast at the Arctic Getaway and final photos around Wiseman we will bid our hosts goodbye and depart for the drive south to Fairbanks. As with the drive north, we will maximize wildlife viewing and photographic opportunities during this day of travel. Upon arrival in Fairbanks we will check in at the Fairbanks hotel, get cleaned up from a day on the road and head out to our farewell dinner at a fine local restaurant.

After breakfast this morning you will be transported to the Fairbanks airport for your flight home or on to other destinations in Alaska.

**Special Travel Note About the arctic:

In the unlikely event that our return flight from the native village back to Prudhoe Bay is cancelled due to weather or any other circumstance, an additional fee of $450 per person will be collected from each trip participant for each additional night we have to stay in the village. This is to cover the extra cost of staying in the village and the cost of a rental vehicle so that we are still able to view and photograph polar bears. I apologize in advance if it becomes necessary to collect this additional fee, but weather in the arctic can be unpredictable. We have only been forced to stay an extra night(s) in the village a few times during all the trips I have done, so the probability is low that this will happen, but I want everyone aware of the possibility in advance.

• Airport transfer in Fairbanks, provided by the hotel.
• All accommodations during the 11 day tour.
• All meals from welcome dinner to breakfast on the final day.
• All transportation on the trip including flights within Alaska.
• Boat excursions in Kaktovik for Polar bear photography (weather permitting)
• Bus excursions in Kaktovik for Polar bear photography (weather permitting)

• Flights to and from Fairbanks to your home in the lower 48.
• Additional days in Fairbanks before or after the trip.
• Money for personal or souvenir items. (Cash is recommended since credit cards are not universally accepted at all our locations. ATM access is available in Fairbanks prior to departure if necessary).
• Weather related itinerary alterations: Travel in remote regions of Alaska can be unpredictable due to weather. Additional fees may apply if we are required to spend extra nights at hotels.

• After space confirmation, a non-refundable $1,000 deposit per person is required to secure the booking.
• Following two payments must be paid by check made in US dollars, (Credit cards may be used but merchant account fees will apply)

1. March 30th, 1st half
2. June 15th, balance

• Cancellations, excluding the $1000 deposit, subsequent payments are refundable until June 1st. Refunds for cancellations after June 1st are not guaranteed. For this reason, and for medical emergencies, we require trip insurance. If we can fill the space with another booking we will refund the payments (minus small fees for booking changes with our vendors).
  • AIG Travel Guard
  • CSA Travel Protection

• You will be sent a trip confirmation packet a few months before the trip departure date.

We will supply a comprehensive PDF that details our recommendations for camera gear and clothing after booking.

• A telephoto lens in the range of 400-500mm is recommended (in conjunction with a 1.4 and/or 2x converter as necessary). 600mm lenses are very large, heavy and hard to handle quickly, and are generally not recommended unless you are very adept at handling it.
• A wide angle lens with a minimum of 24mm f/2.8 is essential for photographing the aurora.
• Tall tripods and fast (f/2.8 or faster) wide angle lenses (at least 24mm wide) are essential for effective aurora borealis photography.
• Wimberley tripod heads do not work for aurora photography, and due to the more spontaneous nature of the wildlife photography we encounter, a general good ballhead is strongly recommended.

• While we can’t guarantee things beyond our control, this question is best answered by past experience. To date we have about a 90% rate of seeing and photographing the aurora and 100% rate of seeing and photographing the Polar bears. Weather is an inhibiting factor for the aurora since clear skies are required, it is less of a factor for viewing and photographing polar bears. Every year is different, but every trip delivers many outstanding viewing and photographic opportunities.

• This is a common questions that we receive all the time, and understandably so. There are some general differences between the trips and it mostly comes down to weather. The month of October is a seasonal transition month and the weather changes are variable as the cold of winter begins to move in. For example: Early October has more daylight, is generally warmer, frequently has less snow, and more open water is present. Later October has less daylight, is generally a bit cooler, often has more snow, and rivers and open water can be frozen over. They are both excellent times with slight variations. For some, the phase of the moon may be a deciding factor, for others, they may want open water opportunities for aurora reflections. But there is great variation in the weather overall, so please take this into account.

• No. While the trip is geared for photo opportunities and interests, it is not uncommon for one spouse to be more interested in photography, while the other enjoys the scenery and watching the wildlife. This is fine with us. However, a word of caution to the non-photographer: photographers tend to be pretty intense in their pursuits so keep in mind that this is the major focus of the trip.

• Your hotel accommodations in Fairbanks, located just a mile from the airport, offer pick and drop off service for free.
• Lodging in the Brooks Range is in a very comfortable and rustic log cabin with shared bathrooms. It gets a complete 5 star review on Trip Advisor.
• Lodging in the high Arctic during the polar bear segment includes one night in an industrial hotel (very clean and comfortable) and three nights at a hotel in Kaktovik, which is warm and friendly, with shared bathrooms.

• Keep in mind the Arctic has ever changing weather with temperatures that can swing from below freezing to warm in a matter of hours at this time of year.
• In October, expect daytime temperatures in the 30’s and 20’s (perhaps as high as the 40’s) with nights below freezing, depending on location. Both rain and/or snow are possible, although rain is less likely.
• In March, the temperatures on average are much colder, with possible low temperatures reaching minus 30 degrees. Snow is possible.

• Arctic Village by Bob Marshall – a summary of the community of
  Wiseman in the early 1900’s, which specifically mentions the historic
  B&B where we will be staying.
• The Brooks Range, the Ultimate Mountains by John Kauffman. It is a good read on the history of the area and the value of wilderness in the north.
• Two in the Far North by Margaret Murie – Memoirs of a wilderness
  advocate with tales of her life in the early pioneer days of Alaska,
  namely Fairbanks and scientific exploration in Alaska’s Arctic.
• Ordinary Wolves by Seth Kantner